Yay! and so I woke up this morning, look out the window, the sky looks clear, browse the webcam..... f*cking awesome sunny day!!!! =)
Yup, I went to surf at Lyall bay again today after about a month. I'm so terribly need to get the frequency up right again. I'm surfing like a total beginner. haha
The forecast said that there were suppose to be like 2-3 feet waves, but while I was paddling, a 5 feet wave came out of nowhere and slammed me and some more rather unfortunate people. We got back on the board and everyone had the same smile. (Surfers' communication style, I think)
But the waves today were quite unpredictable and strong. I was only about 100 metres from the beach when in few seconds I realize that I'm like way~ way~ 300 metres from the beach and nobody's around. haha. I had to paddle back harder to the beach since it keeps pulling me in and there's no waves that I could ride.
Anyway, I had a great time today. And it's the STUDY WEEK! no class!
__________________________
I will dedicate this part to why I find surfing's addictive.
1. It's a cool thing to do.
2. When you're riding the waves, you can see a 5second rainbow from the splashing water.
3. I like everything about the sea.
4. There's an inner-excite feeling when you're about to take off.
5. It's juz damn addictive!
Yup, I went to surf at Lyall bay again today after about a month. I'm so terribly need to get the frequency up right again. I'm surfing like a total beginner. haha
The forecast said that there were suppose to be like 2-3 feet waves, but while I was paddling, a 5 feet wave came out of nowhere and slammed me and some more rather unfortunate people. We got back on the board and everyone had the same smile. (Surfers' communication style, I think)
But the waves today were quite unpredictable and strong. I was only about 100 metres from the beach when in few seconds I realize that I'm like way~ way~ 300 metres from the beach and nobody's around. haha. I had to paddle back harder to the beach since it keeps pulling me in and there's no waves that I could ride.
Anyway, I had a great time today. And it's the STUDY WEEK! no class!
__________________________
I will dedicate this part to why I find surfing's addictive.
1. It's a cool thing to do.
2. When you're riding the waves, you can see a 5second rainbow from the splashing water.
3. I like everything about the sea.
4. There's an inner-excite feeling when you're about to take off.
5. It's juz damn addictive!
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